A trip to Vietnam had been high on my travel list for a long time. The mix of hectic, buzzy cities, stunning mountains, and beautiful coastlines all packed into one country was a huge draw—and a big reason why this Vietnam travel itinerary was so hard to dial in (more on that later). And that’s before I even get to the culture and the food—both of which completely pulled me in. I’ve always been intrigued by destinations that feel just slightly more uncommon. Maybe it’s the storyteller in me, but I love experiencing a place that few people I know have visited, then coming home with stories to share—especially for my fellow LGBTQ+ travelers, who have an entirely different set of concerns when choosing a destination or building an itinerary.
Southeast Asia is special to me. In my first year of full-time travel, I spent a ton of time in Thailand and the Philippines. Last year, I even returned to Thailand to lead a queer women’s group trip with 14 incredible travelers (spots available on the next adventure). So in some ways, Vietnam felt familiar—the insane number of motorbikes, the constant availability of an amazing $10 massage, and the flavors that reminded me of why I love this region. But it also felt completely new. The cooler weather and mountainous terrain were a refreshing break from the blistering heat I’ve come to expect in Southeast Asia, and the range of landscapes made narrowing down our itinerary almost stressful.
Vietnam has a raw and real energy to it. The country and its people have been through so much—war, colonialism—but there’s an undeniable resilience here. Despite everything, I was met with so much warmth, an exchange that wasn’t lost on me as a white American traveler. The history lingers in the architecture and in the flavors of the food—French and Chinese influences blending with Vietnamese ingredients to create some of the most incredible dishes. From tiny plastic-chair food stalls serving up steaming broths with mountains of fresh herbs to the breathtaking karsts of Ha Long Bay, Vietnam has all the things that make up my favorite kind of travel experience: a culture completely different from my own, incredible food, and unreal scenery.
With this itinerary, I got to take in the buzzy, fast-paced energy of Hanoi, the highest peaks in Vietnam in Sapa, the stunning UNESCO-listed Ha Long Bay, and the slower, culturally rich ancient city of Hoi An. If you’re thinking about visiting Vietnam, this trip and this time of year are hands-down the way to do it.
LGBT Vietnam: Safety and Visibility
As a lesbian traveler, safety is always top of mind and that was no different when building this itinerary for Vietnam. On this trip, I was traveling with my partner for the first time, making it even more important to find places where we could comfortably hold hands or show affection. While Vietnam isn’t a queer utopia, we felt surprisingly at ease. In nearly two weeks, we had almost no awkward interactions—no questioning glances, no hesitation about booking a shared bed. Even in intimate settings, like couples’ massages in Sapa and Hoi An, we were treated with warmth and respect.
Ho Chi Minh City is the most LGBTQ+-friendly destination, with a handful of queer nightlife spots, though they lean more toward gay men. Hanoi also has a small but lively scene—GC Bar is the city’s go-to queer venue, packed on weekends and walkable from the Old Quarter.
Legally, same-sex relationships have never been criminalized in Vietnam, but same-sex marriage isn’t recognized. Conservative family values still run deep, and many queer locals feel pressure to stay closeted. That said, progress is happening—Vietnam’s Health Ministry officially affirmed in 2022 that being LGBTQ+ is not a mental illness, helping shift public attitudes and healthcare policies.
For LGBTQ+ travelers, Vietnam is generally welcoming, especially in major cities and tourist hubs. Public displays of affection—regardless of gender—aren’t common, so if you get looks, it’s likely cultural rather than homophobic. While Vietnam still has work to do, we found it to be a place where we could exist comfortably, with a growing queer presence and a noticeable shift toward greater acceptance.
Trans Rights in Vietnam
Vietnam has made strides in LGBTQ+ recognition, but legal protections for trans people still lag behind. In 2022, the Health Ministry affirmed that being transgender isn’t a mental illness, but there’s no clear legal process to update gender markers on official documents. A proposed Gender Affirmation Law could change this, though its current form requires surgery—an outdated and unnecessary barrier. Separating medical transition from legal recognition would be a crucial step toward dignity and autonomy for trans-Vietnamese people.
Though queer and trans identities aren’t criminalized, discrimination remains an issue, especially in schools and workplaces. Many trans-Vietnamese individuals seek gender-affirming care in Thailand, which has more established resources. That said, Vietnam is generally a safe and welcoming destination for trans travelers, with minimal reports of harassment.
As a 6-foot-tall, gender-nonconforming person, I’m no stranger to being misread. I am comfortable with all pronouns and often get perceived as male or nonbinary, even in the U.S. Like many GNC, nonbinary, and trans travelers, I have my own safety strategies—especially for gendered spaces. In Vietnam, most bathrooms were single-stall or gender-neutral, making things significantly easier. I never encountered a situation where I felt unsafe or had to opt out due to my gender presentation.
Massages can be nerve-wracking for gender-diverse travelers, but after over 15 massages throughout Vietnam, I never had an awkward moment. Every experience felt professional and judgment-free.
While Vietnam still has work to do on trans rights, the country is evolving. I found it to be a place where I could exist comfortably—something that isn’t always guaranteed, even in countries with stronger legal protections. With continued progress, Vietnam has the potential to become a truly inclusive destination.
Weather and Best Time to Visit Vietnam
The best time to visit Vietnam really depends on the kind of experience you’re looking for, but timing your trip around holidays can be a game-changer—especially for longer trips. We visited from late December through early January, taking advantage of my partner’s office being closed after Christmas. If you’re American, this is a great way to maximize your PTO while making the most of Vietnam’s diverse weather.
In general, November to April is the best time to visit, offering drier conditions and comfortable temperatures across the country. Since Vietnam stretches over 1,000 miles from north to south, the climate varies significantly:
- Northern Vietnam (Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Sapa): In winter (December–February), temperatures range from 50–65°F (10–18°C), making it cool but not uncomfortably cold. We loved Sapa’s foggy, cozy mountain atmosphere, while Hanoi and Ha Long Bay were perfect for exploring in light layers. By spring (March-May), things warm up, bringing pleasant weather before the summer heat.
- Central Vietnam (Hoi An, Da Nang, Hue): This region stays mild in the winter and gets warmer heading into spring. It’s also one of the drier spots in summer (June–August), making it a great beach destination when other parts of the country are experiencing heavy rains.
- Southern Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh City, Mekong Delta, Phu Quoc): The south remains warm year-round, with December to April bringing dry, sunny days and temperatures around 75–90°F (24–32°C). By May, it starts heating up, and the rainy season (June–October) brings tropical downpours, though they usually pass quickly.
One of the best perks of traveling in late December to early January was the smaller crowds compared to peak months like March and April. We got to experience top destinations without the usual tourist rush while enjoying the best of both worlds—sweater weather up north and beach days further south. If you’re looking for a balance of good weather and fewer crowds, late autumn and early spring are also fantastic choices.
Vietnam Travel Itinerary: 14 Days
We had 16 days total, including travel time to and from NYC and transit between cities. While our ideal Vietnam itinerary originally included the south—Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta—we quickly realized that covering the entire country in one trip would mean moving way faster than we like. Instead, we decided to save southern Vietnam for a future trip, ideally paired with Cambodia.
To narrow things down, we each picked a must-visit destination. I chose Hanoi for its winding streets and sensory overload in the Old Quarter, while Kristine picked Ha Long Bay, a longtime travel dream of hers. From there, we added Hoi An (because let’s be real, it’s stunning) and Sapa for a more relaxing escape.
Logistically, we flew into Hanoi and out of Da Nang, both of which had plenty of good flight options. We flew in on American Airlines—great experience. The return was with China Airlines, and let’s just say I probably won’t be flying with them again anytime soon.
EQ Tip: Take care of your Vietnam visa well before your travel date. There is no visa-on-arrival option.
Hanoi Vietnam Travel Itinerary
Day 1: Hanoi
Getting from the airport to the hotel was super easy—did we overpay? Probably. But after a 30-hour travel day at 11 PM, convenience won. Cabs are readily available right outside the airport, and plenty of people speak English, so it’s a straightforward process.
EQ Tip: Many cabs (and honestly, a lot of things in Vietnam) are cash only, so bring some USD to exchange at the airport or hit an ATM before leaving. Personally, I prefer stopping at a few ATMs throughout the trip rather than carrying a ton of cash.
After a delayed flight, we finally arrived at our first hotel in Vietnam—Sunline Hotel in Hanoi. It’s in a prime Old Quarter location, making it super easy to pop back during the day to drop off jackets or grab camera batteries.
The room was smaller than expected—with two full-size suitcases, it took some maneuvering—but it was clean, comfortable, and quiet (at least by Brooklyn standards). What really stood out, though, was the incredible staff. As LGBTQ travelers, we never know what to expect at check-in, but they were warm, welcoming, and genuinely helpful. From restaurant recommendations to SIM card advice and onward travel logistics, they made sure we had everything we needed. If you’re an LGBTQ traveler heading to Hanoi, I highly recommend this hotel.
Day 2: Hanoi
Morning
We kicked off the trip with a food tour—because let’s be real, we’re both huge foodies. We knew the basics like pho and banh mi, but we wanted a deeper dive into Vietnamese cuisine. Enter Ella Ha Noi Food Tour—a three-hour walking tour through the Old Quarter, with stops at five to six different spots and a chance to try 10-12 dishes (vegetarian and vegan options available!).
Beyond the food, it was a great intro to Hanoi itself—learning about the culture, history, and even the logistics of navigating the city, like crossing busy streets and grabbing a table at an outdoor restaurant (surprisingly intimidating at first).
We went with a private tour so we could stop for photos and videos without worrying about holding up a group—totally worth it. The food was incredible, but one of the biggest highlights? Vietnamese coffee. Kristine isn’t a coffee drinker at home, but after discovering sweetened condensed milk, coconut milk, and a whole lot of sugar, she was hooked. We spent the rest of the trip seeking out as many cups as possible.
Afternoon
One of my favorite things to do when traveling is get a haircut—there’s something about stepping into a local barbershop and watching how people move through their daily routines that feels like a glimpse into the culture. I found a great spot, Viet Dreamers Barber Shop and the experience was super gender-affirming, which isn’t always a given when visiting traditionally gendered spaces abroad.
After that, we both went to get our nails done. I’ve been really into gel manicures with full designs lately, and this was easily one of the best deals ever—$30 for intricate designs on every nail. It was such a positive experience all around, and a great reminder that exploring self-care spots while traveling can be just as fun and memorable as visiting major sights.
Day 3: Hanoi
We packed our last full day in Hanoi with incredible coffee, a Michelin-recommended noodle shop, and a visit to the famous Train Street. Walking through Hanoi never got old—every street had something new to take in, from small hidden markets to bustling local spots.
Café Dinh
Egg coffee is a must-try in Vietnam! This creamy blend of strong Vietnamese coffee and frothy egg yolk started in Hanoi in the 1940s, and Café Dinh quickly became our favorite spot for it. The café itself is unassuming but always packed, even early in the morning. The egg coffee was perfectly sweet and frothy, balanced by the deep flavor of the coffee. We tried egg coffee several times during our trip, but Café Dinh’s version was hands down the best. If you’re deciding between hot or iced, we recommend the hot version for the best texture.
@lindscale Egg coffee is a must-try when you're in Vietnam! This creamy concoction blends strong Vietnamese coffee with a sweet, frothy egg yolk topping, and it all started in Hanoi back in the 1940s. Our favorite spot for it was Café Dinh. The building is unassuming, but the café was packed, even early in the morning. The staff was so kind, the coffee came out quickly, and the egg coffee was incredibly frothy and sweet, perfectly balanced by the bold flavor of Vietnamese coffee. We tried egg coffee a few times during our two-week trip, but Café Dinh’s was definitely our favorite. We preferred it hot over the iced version, though honestly, all the coffee in Vietnam was pretty outstanding! #hanoicoffee #eggcoffeehanoi #hanoifood #eggcoffee ♬ original sound – DJ Playboi Pocky
Giao Mua
We first saw Giao Mua on TikTok and were immediately drawn in by its stunning aesthetic. The space is gorgeous, and while the coffee here was stronger and less sweet than in many other places we visited, it was still excellent. If you’re looking for a beautiful café to relax in, this is the spot.
May Kitchenware
Part ceramics shop, part coffeehouse, this two-floor space is filled with stylish little nooks to explore. We visited on a busy weekend afternoon and still found it worth the stop. The coconut coffee was delicious, and every drink we saw looked just as good. Plus, it was a nice break from the Old Quarter, giving us a chance to wander through a different part of the city. Definitely a great place for photos and a unique coffee experience.
Bánh Cuốn Bà Xuan
This Michelin Guide restaurant lives up to the hype, but walking in can feel a bit intimidating. The place was packed, and we weren’t exactly sure how seating worked until a friendly local motioned for us to just grab a spot wherever we could. Once we sat down, we quickly placed our order—there are only two types of rice rolls to choose from—and within minutes, we were watching them being freshly made right in front of us.
The bánh cuốn (steamed rice rolls) were thin, delicate, and packed with flavor, served with piles of fresh herbs and a delicious dipping sauce. We weren’t 100% sure of the “correct” way to eat them, so we just watched the locals and followed their lead. That’s one of my favorite things about travel—learning through experience, especially when it comes to food. If you’re visiting Hanoi, this place is an absolute must.
Hanoi Train Street
We couldn’t leave Hanoi without experiencing the famous Train Street. Finding an exact train schedule was tricky—apparently, only the restaurant owners along the tracks have a reliable idea of when they’ll pass through. So, we took a chance, walked over from our Old Quarter hotel, and grabbed a couple of beers while we waited.
The whole street is lit up at night, buzzing with energy. When the train finally came, it moved faster than we expected, and we definitely had to turn our knees to the side to feel safe as it passed just inches away. It was a total adrenaline rush and an experience you just can’t miss. Our advice? Grab a beer, soak in the atmosphere, and chat with the restaurant owners to get the best estimate of when the next train will roll through.
Itinerary for Sapa Vietnam
Day 4: Hanoi to Sapa: A Travel Day
Jet lag finally caught up with us, so we took things slow and easy before our transfer to Sapa. We made a final stop at Hidden Alley, a cozy coffee shop just a two-minute walk from our hotel. This was actually our third visit—their rich, creamy chocolate coffee was unreal, easily one of the best we’ve ever had.
Then it was time for the five-hour journey to Sapa. There are three main ways to get there:
- Bus: The cheapest but longest option. You can take a sleeping bus, but the quality varies, so do some research before booking.
- Private Car: The most expensive but gives you full control over stops—great if you want to sightsee along the way.
- Shared Van: This is what we chose. Our 8-person van was comfortable, with two bathroom breaks and USB ports at each seat to keep our phones charged. It was a smooth ride, and we paid $40 for both of us.
One thing to note: We told the driver our hotel name, but he still dropped us off in the middle of Sapa town. It was a bit unsettling in the moment, but cabs were easy to find and affordable. We’re not sure if this is standard for all van transfers, but just know that getting to your hotel from Sapa town is quick and inexpensive if this happens to you.
Day 5: Sapa – A Cozy Mountain Escape
Sapa is one of the most popular destinations in northern Vietnam, known for its stunning mountain landscapes, terraced rice fields, and vibrant ethnic minority cultures. Many travelers come here for trekking and homestays with local Hmong and Dao communities, but we were drawn to Sapa for a different reason—we wanted a peaceful escape in the mountains. After days of nonstop exploring in Hanoi, we were ready to slow down, soak in the scenery, and just breathe.
We spent the entire day unwinding at Sapa Jade Hill Resort & Spa, and honestly, cozy is the best word to describe it. The resort has a lodge-like feel, with a restaurant, spa, and bar on-site, making it the perfect place to relax and take in the mountain views.
Our room felt like a warm wooden cabin, complete with a rain shower, large tub, and a small porch with chairs to enjoy the scenery. But the real highlight? The bed. Not only was it super comfortable, but because the temperatures dipped into the low 40s, it came with the most amazing heated mattress pad. We barely wanted to leave—it was that cozy.
Meals weren’t included, but eating on the property was convenient. Breakfast was a solid buffet with Western staples for a bit of familiarity, plus some fun new things to try. Dinner was a bit trickier—even after several days of eating in Hanoi, some of the dishes were unfamiliar to us. We’re not picky eaters, but we did end up with veggies and instant noodles a couple of times.
That said, Sapa town is just a 10-minute drive away, and while we didn’t go in for dinner as often as we should have (because we were fully embracing relaxation mode), we’d recommend planning meals in town for more variety.
We also had a couples massage here and the staff was incredible and welcoming. They had our passports so they knew my gender and that we were a lesbian couple and set everything up for a beautiful couples massage. It was so nice to have that sweet time together without any stress or weirdness around us being a queer couple.
Day 6: Sapa
We were up early and the views were incredible! The fog finally lifted and we got to see the spectacular mountains – they were incredible. Being able to see the rice terraces and the mountain peaks from our room was mind-boggling we were so giddy with excitement to see the views we had been hoping for. Not wanting to miss a second we headed into Sapa town and even the drive was beautiful, we truly had no idea, that’s how foggy things had been.
White Cloud Cafe & Restaurant
Not wanting to miss a single moment of the views, we found a coffee shop that had some of the best scenery in Sapa. The spot was absolutely perfect—the mountains stretched out in front of us, and the salt and coconut coffees were some of the best we’d had. The staff was super laid-back, letting everyone move around to snap photos and take in the landscape. We didn’t eat, but all the food looked and smelled incredible. It’s also a great starting point for the walk down to Cát Cát Village, making it the perfect stop before heading out to explore.
Cat Cat Village
Cát Cát Village is one of the most well-known spots near Sapa, and while it’s geared toward tourists, it’s still a beautiful place to explore. The village is home to the H’Mong people, and walking through, you’ll see traditional wooden houses, handicraft shops, and locals weaving intricate textiles. The path winds through lush terraced fields and waterfalls, making it a scenic and easy stroll, even if parts of it feel a bit commercialized. We had seen mixed reviews but the weather was nice for we decided to take the walk down to Cat Cat Village. You do buy tickets to get in ($6) Unfortunately, right off the bat we just felt like we were kind of stuck on a maze of stairs with people selling handicrafts. Some of the lookout points were incredible but honestly, I would probably recommend skipping this stop.
EQ Tip: Book a trekking tour. There are a bunch of trekking options for various fitness levels but with many of them, you do make a stop in some of the H’Mong villages and some H’mong people even lead their own trekking tours. We skipped trekking solely because we didn’t trust the fog to clear and a long hike or cable car to the highest mountain in Vietnam Fansipan sounded like a bummer without views. If you’re going in a different season or just having better luck with the weather I’d consider a single-day hike.
After a ton of walking and a somewhat frustrating afternoon, we headed back to Sapa Jade Hill for another couples massage and enjoyed some coffee and ginger tea at the bar. Sapa was our stop for relaxation and we really leaned into that.
H’Mung Restaurant
H’mông Restaurant had a good mix of Vietnamese and Western dishes, clearly catering to travelers—but honestly, that was exactly what we were looking for. We wanted something easy and comforting, and the food hit the spot. The chilly fog had rolled in, so we both went for pho and ginger tea. I don’t usually love pho at home since I often find it a little bland, but in Vietnam, the broth was so rich and flavorful, and the fresh herbs made all the difference.
Day 7: Sapa
Sapa O Long Tea Hill
We arrived early and practically had the whole place to ourselves. The morning fog gave everything a dreamy, almost otherworldly feel. We had hoped for clear skies by heading out just after sunrise, but the mist lingered, softening the landscape. Even with limited views, the tea hill was stunning, and we spent a couple of hours wandering through the rows of vibrant green tea plants. We had also heard mixed reports about the cherry blossoms still being in bloom, but unfortunately, we had missed them by a few weeks.
With our entry fee, we received a small map and a bag of tea, which was a nice touch. We watched as workers carefully picked tea leaves, which was fascinating to see up close. Even though we didn’t get the full scenic views, the experience was still beautiful—I can only imagine how breathtaking it must be on a clear day or when the cherry blossoms are in bloom. This spot is absolutely worth visiting, and you could easily combine it with other nearby waterfalls and popular photo spots.
To get around, we took a cab on our first day and hit it off with the driver, Bang. He was young, super friendly, and happy to customize a day tour for us, which we coordinated through WhatsApp. He had great suggestions for stops along the way and was always right on time for pick-ups. If you’re looking for a reliable driver in Sapa, I’d highly recommend reaching out to him at +84 38 56 7201.
Cafe 1600
incredible mountain views—or so we’ve heard. Unfortunately, the thick fog was back, and we soon realized the few hours the day before were all we’d see of those landscapes.
That said, fog or no fog, the coffee did not disappoint. By this point in the trip, we had fully committed to a rotation of Vietnamese coffee favorites—egg coffee, coconut coffee, salt coffee, and the classic cà phê sữa đá (Vietnamese iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk). No matter the view, starting the day with a great cup of coffee is always a win.
Day 8: Sapa to Ha Long Bay
There’s no way around it—getting from Sapa to Ha Long Bay is a trek. The drive alone takes about seven hours, not counting stops. If we could redo one thing on our Vietnam itinerary, it would be this transfer.
We waited too long to book, which limited our options. Booking in person is usually cheaper than online, but last-minute planning didn’t work in our favor. If we did it again, we’d go for an overnight luxury sleeper bus. They vary in quality, but the best ones have decent beds, and with noise-canceling headphones, you can actually get some sleep. The buses make a few stops for snacks and bathrooms, making them the most efficient and budget-friendly choice.
Another option is an 8-person “limousine” van. It’s affordable, but if it’s full, it can feel cramped. This works best if you’re traveling with a group and can book the whole van, giving you control over stops.
For the most flexibility, a private car is the way to go. It’s the most expensive option, but ideal if you have a lot of luggage or want to stop along the way. We booked a last-minute private car for about $220 USD.
Seeing both Sapa and Ha Long Bay was a priority for us, but the logistics were tricky. You could break it up with a stop in Hanoi, but our top recommendation? Book a solid sleeper bus and knock it out overnight.
Day 9: Ha Long Bay
Ha Long Bay has been on Kristine’s bucket list for over a decade, and honestly, I’ve been dreaming of it since @MegTenEyck spent time motorbiking around northern Vietnam back in 2014. We knew it would be stunning, but we also knew that choosing the right experience could make or break the trip. So, out of an abundance of caution (and a little fear of disappointment), we Googled best luxury cruise in Ha Long Bay. That search led us to Paradise Vietnam, and we couldn’t have been happier with our choice.
We opted for the two-night, one-day cruise through Lan Ha Bay, a just-as-beautiful but less crowded alternative to Ha Long Bay. From start to finish, the experience was seamless. We were picked up and taken directly to the port, check-in was a breeze, and the room was unreal—massive, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the bay, and a huge bathtub I regretfully didn’t get to use.
The cruise included three meals a day, blending Vietnamese and Western dishes. Drinks (cocktails, coffee, etc.) weren’t included but were reasonably priced, similar to Hanoi and Hoi An. One of the highlights was a sunset bike ride to a local village, which honestly felt like something out of a movie. On the second morning, there was an option for kayaking into a cave, but we opted to soak in the sunrise from the top deck with a coffee, watching fishermen pull in their lines and women in small boats selling snacks. It was one of the most peaceful places I’ve ever been.
I’m so glad we went with a quiet, luxury cruise rather than one of the party boats blasting music late into the night. If you’re looking for a high-end, relaxing way to experience Ha Long Bay—without the heavy crowds—this is absolutely worth checking out.
Hoi An, Vietnam Itinerary
Day 10: Ha Long Bay to Hanoi to Hoi An
Travel day! It was time to head from northern Vietnam to central Vietnam, and the easiest way to do that was by flying. We booked a car through Paradise Cruises straight to the airport—not the cheapest option, but definitely the most convenient.
Ha Long Bay to Hanoi: 2 hours 45 minutes
Hanoi to Da Nang flight: 1 hour 20 minutes (plus my built-in 2-hour airport buffer because I have a lifelong fear of being late—retired athlete problems)
Da Nang to Hoi An: 40 minutes
It was a long day, but everything ran smoothly. Hanoi’s airport was easy to navigate, and despite my usual anxiety around airport security as a GNC traveler, the process was surprisingly respectful.
For Trans, Non-Binary & GNC Travelers: Finding gender-neutral bathrooms in the Hanoi and Da Nang airports was tough—everything was gendered and had attendants, which is in my opinion the worst combo. I opted for the men’s room because it felt safer, I wish I had a great tip or workaround but I don’t. Just a heads-up so you know what to expect. Take care of yourself and stay safe, I understand how stressful this part of travel can be.
Day 11: Hoi An
Nestled between rivers, rice paddies, and beaches, Hoi An feels like a place suspended in time. With its yellow shop houses, lantern-lit streets, and lush countryside, it’s a city that instantly feels like a dream—whether wandering by day or soaking in the magic at night.
Phin Cafe
Hoi An is known for its cafe culture, and since we love a good coffee shop at home, we had to start our day at Phin. Tucked away in a quiet alley, surrounded by greenery, it was the perfect spot to try an egg coffee and coconut coffee. Plus, it gave us an excuse to explore the narrow, colorful streets, where the lanterns make the whole city feel straight out of a storybook.
Hai Chiến Cao Lầu (Stall E034)
As a longtime Anthony Bourdain fan, visiting one of his No Reservations stops felt like a must. He raved about Hội An’s cao lầu, and we found some at Hai Chiến Cao Lầu in the Central Market. Unlike many Bourdain-approved spots, this one had no line—we walked right up and grabbed a seat at the counter. The dish, a mix of pork, pickled shallots, greens, and those signature chewy noodles made with ash water from the Cham Islands, was everything we hoped for. If you’re in Hội An, this is a must-try.
Massage at Little Residence Boutique Hotel
We stayed at Little Residence, a boutique hotel blending Hoi An’s charm with Portuguese elegance. It was close enough to Ancient Town for easy access but far enough for a quiet night’s sleep. The design was stunning, the rooms spacious, and the beds ridiculously comfortable. Our private balcony was the perfect spot to unwind. Most importantly, the staff was incredibly welcoming to us as a queer couple, from check-in to booking a couples massage. If you’re an LGBTQ traveler visiting Hội An, this hotel is an easy recommendation.
QQ Restaurant Hoi An
We’d seen great reviews of QQ online, but when we met a local who had gone to high school in NYC and he called it one of his favorite spots for a quick meal, we knew we had to check it out. We ordered the appetizer sampler and bun cha—both were excellent. The service was fast, the restaurant was air-conditioned (always a win in Vietnam), and the walk there took us through the night market, which made the whole experience even better. If you’re looking for a solid, no-fuss meal in Hội An, QQ is worth a stop.
Day 12 Hoi An
Mỹ Son Sanctuary
We started our day with an early morning visit to Mỹ Sơn Sanctuary, booking the earliest small-group tour we could find to avoid the crowds. We reserved through Get Your Guide, and our guide was not only knowledgeable but also kind enough to offer to snap photos for everyone—always a bonus for getting some great couple shots. As with our entire time in Vietnam, we felt welcomed by both our guide and driver as an LGBTQ+ couple traveling together.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mỹ Sơn is one of Vietnam’s most significant archaeological treasures. Built by the Cham civilization between the 4th and 13th centuries, these Hindu temples were dedicated to Shiva and once served as a major religious and political center. Though heavily damaged during the Vietnam War, many of its red-brick towers and intricate sandstone carvings still stand, creating an almost mystical atmosphere in the jungle-covered valley. It’s a must-visit for history lovers and adventure seekers alike.
Our tour included a cup of coffee or ginger tea on the way in and a comforting bowl of noodle soup on the way out. The entire experience took about six hours, and we were dropped off right at our hotel—just in time for an afternoon of exploring.
Rainbow Tailor
One of the best things to do in Hội An is to have custom clothing made—especially suits. You can bring inspiration photos, choose from a huge selection of fabrics, and create pieces tailored exactly to your body and style. For queer travelers, finding gender-affirming clothing that truly fits can be a challenge, which is why Rainbow Tailor was such a standout experience.
Eric, a gay tailor there, was excited to help us design custom suits, and the entire process felt incredibly affirming. I showed him only men’s suits and dress shirts, and within three days (with a couple of fittings for alterations), everything was perfectly tailored to me. If your suit isn’t ready before you leave, they’ll even ship it to you—so don’t let luggage space hold you back. Custom suiting is often out of my budget at home, but here, I got a full suit and dress shirt for just over $150, making it a truly special and accessible experience.
Morning Glory
For dinner, we headed to Morning Glory – Original by Ms. Vy, one of the most well-known chefs in Hội An. She owns several restaurants throughout the ancient city, all under the Taste Vietnam brand, which she created to share her passion for Vietnamese cuisine with the world. If you’re into Vietnamese food, chances are you’ve come across her name—she literally wrote the book on it (Taste Vietnam: The Morning Glory Cookbook). Her restaurants celebrate the balance of flavors and textures that make Vietnamese food so special, and after eating here, we totally get why she’s such a big deal.
Easily our favorite meal of the trip, and we could not stop talking about it. I tend to get fixated on certain foods, and for me, that food was bún chả, so obviously, I ordered it again. Kristine went for a duck breast dish that she absolutely loved—though, in true travel-brain fashion, we completely forgot the exact name. We also split an order of chicken ginger dumplings that might have been the single best bite of the entire trip.
If you have time, I’d also recommend checking out Ms. Vy’s Market Restaurant. It’s set up like a food hall with different stations featuring dishes from all of her restaurants, and we had a great lunch there one day. Plus, Morning Glory has a cooking school if you want to learn how to make some of these dishes yourself. But honestly, if you do nothing else, just eat here—you won’t regret it.
Day 14: Hoi An
This was our last full day in Vietnam, and we wanted to fill it with all our favorite things. We started at Buttercup by Rosie’s Café for two outstanding coffees—salt and coconut, of course—plus my 20th glass of watermelon juice (seriously, couldn’t get enough) and a smoothing bowl overflowing with tropical fruit. From there, we wandered the streets looking for souvenirs: a lantern to bring home, postcards for loved ones, and a silk robe specially requested by my six-year-old niece, who’s very used to receiving trinkets from the road.
After an afternoon of exploring, we had our daily 30-minute foot massage back at the hotel before heading to Avocado Café, where we ordered their spring roll flight—three types of spring rolls, each paired with a unique sauce. A definite 10/10. Then, we grabbed a sunset cocktail and juice on the rooftop of 92 Station before making our way down to the water for a ride on one of Hội An’s famous lantern boats.
Yes, it was touristy. Yes, it was busy—boats, people, drones, cameras flashing from every angle. And yes, I’d do it again. Sometimes things are popular for a reason, and this was just pure fun. We lit our lanterns, made wishes, and soaked in the chaos of twinkling lights and floating candles all around us. It was the perfect way to close out our trip.
For our final meal of this Vietnam Itinerary, we circled back to Morning Glory—this time at the second location—and ordered almost the exact same meal as the night before. Bun cha, spring rolls, cao lau, watermelon juice, and a little wine to toast to an incredible trip. The next morning, we’d be flying out, and even after two weeks in Vietnam, we weren’t quite ready to leave. It was the perfect place for our first big adventure together.
