I’ve never skied. My partner, on the other hand, grew up on the slopes. So now, in my mid (fine, late) 30s, she decided it was time for my first-ever ski weekend. I played sports through college, so I like to think of myself as a generally athletic person—but strapping slippery sticks to my feet and launching myself down a mountain? A little nerve-wracking. Luckily, last year on a trip to Hood River, I got a quick but confidence-boosting ski lesson. At the very least, I knew how to step into my skis and throw down a pretty solid-looking “pizza.”
Like every good queer relationship, there’s always one lifelong skier and one trying to fumble their way through it, so of course, I said yes. But when it came time to actually book this gay ski trip, a few key factors were in play: it had to be easy to get to from NYC, have solid beginner runs, an adorable town for après-ski exploration, and—most importantly—be extremely LGBTQ-friendly. Because, honestly, worrying about flying down an icy mountain was enough; worrying about anti-queer nonsense on top of that? Absolutely not. Enter Vermont.
The Northeast is generally pretty queer-friendly, but Vermont? Vermont is as LGBTQ-welcoming as it gets. Getting there was simple, with Amtrak and quick flights into Burlington. And Stowe? A perfect mix—beginner-friendly enough for me, but with plenty of more challenging runs to keep Kristine happy. We opted for four days, four nights in Stowe, and I can confirm that even if you’re not going for Winter Rendezvous (their massive gay ski week), you’ll still find yourself in a winter wonderland of queer joy. Whether you’re swooshing down the slopes or just vibing in a cozy après-ski bar, a lesbian Vermont getaway is as wholesome, welcoming, and snow-covered as it comes.
NYC to Burlington
When planning the trip, we factored in time, cost, and the ability to actually get some work done along the way. Enter the Amtrak Ethan Allen Express. The NYC to Burlington train took about 7.5 hours (closer to 7, really) and only set us back $65. Honestly? A steal. We both worked full days from the train, thanks to the surprisingly solid Amtrak WiFi, outlets at every seat, and those little flip-down trays that make working just comfortable enough. Train travel has become my unexpected MVP since moving to NYC—way more convenient than I ever gave it credit for.
Burlington also has a solid little airport for a city its size, with direct flights to a good number of larger U.S. cities. At the end of the trip, we flew straight to Washington, D.C., on a quick and painless 90-minute flight. The airport itself? Small, efficient, easy to navigate—basically the opposite of the travel chaos we all dread.
Trans, Nonbinary, and GNC travelers: Burlington Airport was a dream. The TSA agents were chill, didn’t make a big (or loud) deal about my gender in the body scanners, and gender-neutral bathrooms were easy to find and access. It was one of the best airport experiences I’ve ever had.
Where to Stay in Stowe: From Luxury Resorts to Cozy Hideaways
When it comes to finding the perfect place to stay for a lesbian Vermont ski trip, you’ve got options. Whether you want the full resort experience, a stylish boutique stay, or a secluded cabin to get snowed in (highly recommend), Stowe has something for every vibe.
Topnotch Resort
If you’re traveling for Winter Rendezvous, Stowe’s annual gay ski week, Topnotch Resort & Spa is the official host hotel—so you already know it’s a welcoming spot for LGBTQ+ travelers. This place leans into the whole Vermont luxury resort experience, offering a mix of hotel rooms and private resort homes perfect for groups. Think: skiing all day at Stowe Mountain Resort, taking a horse-drawn sleigh ride through the snowy countryside, or unwinding with a shiatsu massage at their world-class spa. And if your ideal version of après-ski is just sipping wine fireside? That’s on the itinerary too.
Tälta Lodge
For those who want a stylish, adventure-focused stay, Tälta Lodge, a Bluebird by Lark, is another recommended hotel for Winter Rendezvous and a great option year-round. Located right on Mountain Road, this boutique hotel was practically made for outdoor lovers, with gear storage, an indoor heated pool, an outdoor hot tub, a sauna, and even a yoga room. It’s got sleek Scandinavian design, cozy common spaces, and some beautiful on-site bars and restaurants. We seriously considered booking here for our lesbian Vermont getaway but ultimately went for something a little more unconventional…or uncommon
Uncommon Accommodations
Instead of staying right in Stowe, we opted for a more secluded, cozy escape—about 30 minutes from the mountain and 20 minutes from town. The goal? Find a quiet spot where we could (hopefully) get snowed in, sip coffee, and watch the flakes fall from the comfort of our own little retreat. Mission accomplished.
We booked our tiny house stay through Airbnb, and it was everything we wanted and more. The space was snug but well-equipped, with everything we needed to make a few meals and fuel up on coffee before heading out. And when 17 inches of snow dropped on us mid-stay, our host was super communicative and helpful. If you love the idea of a snowy, romantic escape that feels like your own private winter wonderland, this is the way to go.
Stowe Coffee Shops
Skiing (or, in my case, attempting to ski) is hard work, and a solid coffee stop is essential. Luckily, Stowe has some incredible cafés, whether you need a morning caffeine boost, a post-ski warm-up, or just an excuse to eat something covered in maple syrup.
Black Cap Coffee & Bakery
This spot is an absolute must. We went three times, to three different locations, and somehow every single coffee and pastry was chef’s kiss perfect. You can literally see them baking on-site, which explains why everything tastes so fresh. I first saw their maple cinnamon bun on TikTok and knew immediately I needed it in my life. Zero regrets—it was incredible.
Beyond pastries, they also have a lineup of fun signature lattes. My favorite was the banana bread latte, while Kristine was obsessed with the raspberry mocha. And despite the fancy flavors, nothing was too sweet—just perfectly balanced. We also split The Vermonter sandwich (turkey, apples, and obviously some sharp Vermont cheddar), and it was exactly the kind of cozy, hearty bite you want on a cold day.
Woodland Baking & Coffee
This place came through for us on a morning that was, let’s just say, not ideal. After getting our car stuck on ice and missing my ski lesson, we needed comfort—fast. Enter Woodland Baking & Coffee, the ultimate cozy regroup spot.
I grabbed a maple latte, because Vermont. They also had an amazing selection of baked goods, but what really saved the day were their grab-and-go breakfast burritos. Perfect to eat at the café, but even better to stash in a pocket for a mid-mountain snack later. Bonus points for their solid selection of vegan options!
Where to Eat in Stowe: Cozy Comfort Food to Thaw You Out
It was freezing during our trip—like, “feels like negative numbers” kind of cold. So naturally, we leaned into warm, cozy, comforting meals to keep us going. Stowe has plenty of upscale dining if that’s your vibe, but we were all about easy, delicious, no-fuss spots where we could defrost and refuel after a day on the mountain.
The Bench
If you’re looking for the ultimate Vermont lodge vibes, Bench has you covered. The whole place is decked out in warm wood tones, giving it that perfect après-ski feel. The menu is all about elevated comfort food, and our server absolutely nailed the recommendations.The salt and vinegar poutine was unbelievable—if you love that tangy, salty kick, this is a must. We also split the buffalo mac and cheese, which was the perfect mix of creamy, cheesy, and just enough buffalo heat. After 4 PM, they roll out a more dinner-focused menu with steaks, salmon, and a chicken puff pastry situation that looked incredible. Plus, they have a huge selection of craft beer, wine, and cocktails, so it’s a great spot for groups with different tastes.
The Backyard
This was hands-down the chillest spot we hit in Stowe. The Backyard has an elevated dive bar feel, with a solid beer list, a full bar, and a laid-back, welcoming atmosphere.
We showed up cold, exhausted, and in desperate need of food, and this place delivered. The cheesesteak and burger were both exactly what we needed—no frills, just delicious, well-made bar food that hit the spot. If you’re looking for a casual, come-as-you-are spot with good vibes and great eats, this is it.
American Flatbread
We rolled into American Flatbread on Valentine’s Day, fresh off a long travel day and absolutely starving. The place was packed with families, couples, and groups all grabbing pizzas fresh from the massive wood-fired oven in the center of the restaurant.
They have a great mix of fun, creative flavor combos and classic build-your-own options. We also saw a ton of their house salads coming out of the kitchen—clearly a fan favorite. And while I don’t drink, I grabbed a non-alcoholic Stowe Cider, which was half apple cider, half sparkling water—so good that I immediately bought a case to take back to our Airbnb.
Things to Do in Stowe: Winter Edition
Skiing at Stowe Mountain Resort (Obviously.)
Skiing was the whole reason for our trip, and Stowe Mountain absolutely delivered. It’s widely considered one of the best mountains not just in Vermont, but on the entire East Coast.
Stowe Mountain Resort is basically the birthplace of alpine skiing in Vermont, and you can feel that history and community vibe everywhere. The resort itself is made up of two mountains: Mount Mansfield (Vermont’s highest peak) and Spruce Peak, which has a solid mix of beginner and intermediate terrain.
As a total beginner, I really appreciated the ski school here. Lift tickets are included in the cost of a lesson, which is huge if you’re just starting out and don’t want to drop money on both. My advice? Take at least a couple of lessons before hitting the slopes solo—this sport is incredible, but it takes some time to get the hang of. Having an instructor guide you through it, answer all your panicked “Wait, how do I stop?!” questions, and keep the experience fun instead of frustrating made a massive difference.
EQ Tip: We rented all our gear from AJ’s Ski and Sports instead of the mountain and saved a ton of money. They have different rental packages so you can get exactly what you need, and they’re right in downtown Stowe. We had a boot issue, and they had it fixed in less than five minutes—super easy, super convenient.
Explore Stowe Town
Listen, Stowe is adorable. Like, idyllic winter postcard levels of charm. The town itself is small—just a few blocks—but it’s packed with cozy restaurants, boutique shops, a distillery, and even a super cute indie kids’ bookstore.
That said, don’t plan on spending more than a couple of hours here. When we visited, many of the lifts at Stowe were closed, so the town was pretty crowded with people looking for alternate activities.
Cold Hollow Cider Mill
If fall-in-a-cup had a home, it would be Cold Hollow Cider Mill.
This place is one of Vermont’s top tourist spots, and for good reason. The bakery churns out insanely fresh cider donuts—you can literally watch them drop the batter into the fryer. The market is stocked with all things maple (syrups, candies, jams, you name it). And across the parking lot, there’s a café and bar where you can order food and do hard cider tastings.
We went for a hard cider flight and an apple cider with bourbon, and everything was unreal. Honestly, some of the best hard cider we’ve ever had. And as NYC-based folks, visiting a place like this felt like living out someone’s perfect fall fantasy—crisp air, fresh cider, and all the maple you can carry.
Side note: If Stowe is this stunning in the winter, I can only imagine how gorgeous it is in the fall
Ben & Jerry’s Factory
I love ice cream. I love businesses that stand up for what they believe in. And Ben & Jerry’s? They consistently get it right.
The company has a long history of advocating for social justice, and right now, they’re being super vocal about pushing back on anti-DEI, anti-immigration, and anti-LGBTQ policies. They’ve always been the kind of brand I want to support, and the fact that their ice cream is also ridiculously good? That’s just a bonus.
We didn’t get tour tickets in time (rookie mistake), but swinging by for a couple of scoops was still 100% worth it.
LGBTQ Travel in Stowe
Every single restaurant, business, hotel, and activity we visited in Stowe felt genuinely welcoming to us as a lesbian couple. I can’t think of anywhere else I’ve been recently where it was this easy to find gender-neutral bathrooms.
One small but meaningful moment: While shopping for ski socks, a sales associate casually pointed to the wall and said, “For the sake of sizing, left is men’s, right is women’s,” in a way that felt so natural. As a masc, queer person, hearing something as simple as shop whatever section feels good to you made the whole experience feel so much more comfortable.
These little moments kept happening throughout our stay, reinforcing that Stowe—and Vermont in general—is an amazing destination for a cozy, queer-friendly winter getaway.
